October 28, 2017

A Weekend in Paris







To Paris, to the mosquee de Paris with a dear friend from when we lived in Paris. The hammam, where Turkish women scour off layers of summer skin with what feel like brillo pads and bear paws. In and out of increasingly hotter rooms, sitting on slabs of stone - women of all shapes lounging about. There, heart to heart conversations come easily. It is not just bodies that are exposed, but also gut feelings, confessions without much effort. They slip out naturally. It is a raw place - a beautiful structure, full of muddy colors. There is nothing fussy or fancy about it. The Turkish women take your 30-minute massage token and cover every part of your body with fleur d’orange and almond oil. They shout conversations at each other as their hands mark grand circles over your stomach, chest, face, hair, legs. Shake you off when they are finished and dismiss you unceremoniously. You walk out feeling you've released more of yourself. A bit freer.







A Paris walk after. Through the October streets, warm yellow light along the Seine. To a little cafe on Ile Saint-Louis. Emma in beautiful October light.



Then to my sister-in-law’s Marie. She is a painter and every corner, every object of her house is studied. She naturally disposes of anything that doesn’t bring her inspiration.







We went to my old neighborhood in Paris along the Canal Saint Martin - retracing steps and paths from days in Paris when Marguerite was a little choupette like Romy and Colette. Then off to explore and ended up in a brocante in the 12th arrondissement. A funny spot - an ancient SNCF station, now abandoned and turned into food trucks (train cars actually) and antique dealers. Most of the wares were actually from film sets, oddly enough.



I immediately fell in love with this parasol from the 60s - the colors just radiating sunshine. And perfectly preserved. It had sat in a prop warehouse for years and was never exposed to rain or the elements. Just gorgeous. I couldn’t help myself and walked away with it - or rather, lugged it away - for a steal. (I was very grateful to have Marie and Fabien to help me get to the train station from there). It is long and the base is literally 50 kilos, I think. I sat and waited for my train and once the quai was announced, I took a deep breath, gathered all of my things and slowly made my way to my train car (which was, naturally, at the very end of the quai). I nearly speared someone’s foot, the whole thing was so cumbersome, but made it.

It was an Xavier move, really. I remember the ancient wooden bench he once brought back to our apartment on his scooter - by sitting on the bench itself and letting the two ends extend out like airplane wings.



I just could’t pass up the idea of the girls out in our yard, playing under this sun umbrella. Or bringing it to the beach along the Côte d’Azur. Too good.

May 31, 2014

Elsa + Vincent.



These two are the handsprings-all-the-time sort. Sparkling, guileless, funny. Elsa + Vincent

















May 28, 2014

Paris



I miss these streets. Paris' beauty feels flowing and absolute - just around any corner you can expect it to pop and cut your breath slightly.













This little lady does that too, for me. She liked Paris - balmy as ever, she was.

May 26, 2014

Chez Marie.



On our whilrwind trip to Paris this weekend, one of the finest things was finding my sister-in-law and her family again. They've moved to a neighborhood just outside of the 19th arrondissement in Paris - and to a house that used to be a bicycle factory...it is almost a loft with bedrooms carved out of the vertical space. Romy was a treat for everyone ad she was cooed in admiration at her French cousins and aunt and uncle. These are the Parisians we miss most and wish the Atlantic weren't quite so wide.












I love a French boy's desk.

June 29, 2012



Paris + Colette. I am having pangs of occasional guilt for trimbaler-ing (to borrow a verb from French) Colette this much. But this trip is family, starting with Xavier's sister Marie and Colette's cousins Jules and Louise. Marie always said to me about her children that she knew them when they arrived - like their presences were ones with which she was already very familiar. Her words rang so true when I first laid eyes on Colette. It is like that when meeting a baby in a family too - Marie recognized Colette and Colette recognized Marie too - her baby tiger noises and sprawling grin said so. Maybe she recognized the city too - since cities have recognizable souls as well.













Of course Colette was delighted to see her lovely sister, Marguerite, once again and was lucky enough to watch a performance this morning at her school - 80 kindergarteners singing away in French chorus (some more enthusiastically than others it would seem). The songs were all, apparently, classics - none of which I knew. I'm glad Colette will know these songs as classics too. The big sister will be with us all month - lucky us.



One of the cutest things at Marguerite's school ("Maternelle" in France - for kids ages 3-6) is the nap room:



Can you imagine the ataxia nap time must be? (But that is the American speaking...the French have it under control - just look at those beds...a post for another time).

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